The Pre-Fall collection of strict, tailored, and masculine styles highlightes the play on opposites
For the Fendi Pre-Fall 2019 collection, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi took references to the graphics of 19th century’s French gates inform patterns and decors, while the prints of Japanese vintage men’s kimonos enhanced the collection’s elegant appeal.
Skillfully tailored, slightly elongated blazers, revealing asymmetric lapels and sometimes enriched with fur details at the cuffs and sporty belts, were matched with midi plissé skirts or wide-legged cropped pants. Coats and double-breasted blazers were cut sharp, severe, and elongated, often boasting quirky asymmetrical lapels.
Outwear featured parkas embellished with precious fox fur collars, mink fur bombers and power coats showing intarsia reproducing the sinuous graphics of antique gates, which were also rendered as jacquards motifs on second-skin knitted dresses.
The masculine tailoring was again counterpointed by an injection of sporty utilitarian elements, rendered with eccentric flair, as in a shirt-jacket hybrid that was one of the collection’s new proposals.
Motifs were rendered all over on silk jacquard, embroidered on silk tulle, or as mink intarsia inlaid on a mink fur. The contrast between structured and soft continued in the sculpted frocks where technical jersey is juxtaposed to featherweight lace. The sense of lightness also defines the fluffy knitwear worked in charming color combinations, while the maxi pockets popping up on a color-blocked coat add a utilitarian attitude. Llace, which was the fabric of choice for ethereal yet densely decorated evening dresses, light as feathers and of exquisite feminine allure.
The rigorous, sharp silhouettes were softened by the rich tones of red and beige, icy greys and blues, as well as intense green shades.