Flashy colors and plaid prints take over the Proenza Shcouler Pre-Fall collection with an attitude

Designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough swapped the elaborate embroideries for the straightforward appeal of denim and the codes of American sportswear for the Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2019 collection.

For Pre-Fall, they continued weaving in some of their own familiar codes, as in the bra-cup detailing, the slip dresses that they layered over skinny, ankle-zip flares or full trousers, or showed under an oversize raw felt topcoat, gave this collection a sensuality.

Yhey showed tie-dyed shirts in new colorways with pleated knit skirts. Tie-dye is everywhere, but these look identifiably Proenza Schouler.

Making something as universal as a blazer into a signature is a harder project. Hernandez and McCollough’s efforts here revolved around deconstruction. The lapels of a checked blazer, for example, were semi-detached and could be wrapped artfully around the neck like a scarf. The jacket looked boss paired with an equally deconstructed chunky knit sweater and chambray acid-wash full-leg trousers.