For the Erdem Resort 2019 collection, the designer captured something oddly evocative with the flow of flowery fabrics, the slightly out-of-focus fluffiness of feathery headdresses, all by shooting everything in nonidentical pairs rather than duplicates.
Erdem is a twin and, in fact, Twinniness was part of his story. In his large office in London’s East End, the designer had propped up his inspiration boards as background information. One of the photos he’d pinned there was Diane Arbus’s famous image of twin girls, among a collage that also included work by William Eggleston and blurry imaginary portraits of young women by the contemporary painter Kaye Donachie.
The collection featured a short trapeze dress with a caped back. A pink and silver brocade bustier gown with detachable balloon sleeves. The long, polka-dotted chiffon romantic things with their empire, ribbon-tied waists. A bit of a surprise among all the double acts: two trouser suits with radically differing cuts, one wide, one neatly tailored. Each as compelling as the other.