Japan was the inspiration behind Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy Resort 2019 collection with the appeal of Japanese fabrics to the late Hubert de Givenchy’s own connection to the country. The designer worked in a more vivid and graphic register than what she proposed for years at Chloé, with styles that are relatively risk-free while delivering at the luxury level.

Slouched boots that slant from top to toe; a hoodie in satin chintz; blouses with ridged asymmetric front ruffles; and leather skirts hitting just below the knee—in each, there’s a trace of those aristocratic Givenchy codes that dovetail with her own British background. The reworked retro flourishes were featured with a zipper up the front of a stirrup pant to expose extra ankle, accentuated shoulders with funnel necks on tops, or else the way a sturdy white canvas jumpsuit is paired with a pleated bow blouse that spirals like a double helix.

“There’s a powerful woman in there that I really love; she’s a very strong character who loves a strong shape—something that gives a real sense of fashion,” the designer said.

The collection’s evening looks—specifically the long-sleeved black dress showered with silver embroidery, and the gradient celadon and rust plissé lamé gown—further the couture spirit we’ve seen most recently at the Met Gala and at Cannes.