Fifty years after the momentum of urgency and creativity that the year 1968 brought, Maria Grazia Chiuri revived an era when the rules of fashion were turned on their head, for the Christian Dior Fall 2018 collection. Slogans, fashion magazine covers and photographs from the Dior archives all came together in the show scenography which reflected the assertions of a generation of restless youth.
Magnificent woolen embroideries appear on organza dresses, jeans are reworked and printed, bags are inspired by the House’s archives, with an ethnic shoulder strap or patchworks made of fabrics drawn from the same heritage: these pieces become veritable windows on the world. Ponchos are worn freely. Ornamentation becomes important, acting as ambassadors of the different cultures each type represents. The collection evolves in a spirit of freedom as much in its creation as in its associations, shapes and materials. This act of cutting loose and choosing one’s own image is precisely what Maria Grazia Chiuri sets out for the women of today. Kilts come in different lengths, but also in unexpected materials like point d’esprit, and are paired with masculine jackets or small coats. The abundant knitwear is also embroidered and hugs the body. Dresses have been shortened and are worn over biker-inspired thigh boots.
In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri openly counterbalances the return of the uniform, to bring us back to what it signifies: the individual taking precedence over gender differences, and the equality of rights and roles which remains the great conquest of that time.
The dresses, skirts and coats are an expression of numerous and subtle artistic and cultural sensibilities, like windows open on the world. Some of the fabrics of which they’re composed are inspired by pieces from the House’s archives, and the silhouettes evoke rebellious youth yearning for freedom, creativity and equality. Smothered in geometric motifs, florals, or reworked in a tonal patchwork of eight different washes, denim, one of the key materials is overhauled with inspiration from sixties codes.
Go backstage and discover the bold and daring looks at the Christian Dior Fall runway show.