Marc Jacobs channels the energies of contemporary youth with the Spring collection

The Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 collection was featured in a runway show that was silent with all 56 models walked only to the sounds of their shoes on the wood-plankedd floor of the Park Avenue Armory. Then they came back out for their finale with the aria from the 1981 French film Diva as an accompaniment.

Jacobs’s program notes called it a “reimagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City.”

The vibrantly colorful collection featured giant daisies and other overscale flowers, tinsel trimmings, and sequins. Paired with sports sandals and easy-on-the-waistline sarouel track pants, the ensemble was perfected with silk turbans by Stephen Jones. Jacobs’s idea here was to return to the archives, passing old ideas and former hits through “exaggerated, decadent, and exotic” filters. Hence the huge flowers, the hyper-vivid palette, and the weekender-size bags dangling charms that spelled Somewhere.

Fanny packs looked like a nod to tourist gear and a simultaneous sidelong glance at the celebrity vogue for wearing the nerdy accessory in paparazzi pics. With the turbans Jacobs was quoting himself.

The rope-belted jumpsuits and dresses had an easy appeal, but the oversize shapes were a little ponderous, and the acid-trippy flowers overly retro. The soundless room also played a part; music does so much to set a mood and trigger emotion.

Go backstage at the Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 runway show in this exclusive video by Belle Smith.