An Haute Couture collection that reflects this absolute self-assured femininity.

July 18, 2017

Schiaparelli had a circle of inspired and inspiring women revolving around her. Artists, muses and often partners of great artists, these women led enthralling, moderne lives, constantly rebelling against conservatism. The exquisite refinement of evanescent silhouettes contrasts with dresses seemingly deconstructed that look like abstract compositions.

Designer Bertrand Guyon imbued his new Fall 2017 couture collection with newness and avoided the archives. “I see their era as the beginning of the liberation of women,” he commented. What conveyed those concepts best here were his evening dresses, which were alluring in their unstructured lightness. Not just the tulle confections, the most stunning of which came in what he described, quite incisively, as a Rothko dégradé, but also a draped asymmetric dress in wispy malachite green jersey and a trapeze style in color-blocked shades of blue jersey with a trompe l’oeil crystal zipper. The shocking pink number in silk chiffon and crepe with crystals picking out the neckline seemed poised for some statuesque star’s turn on the red carpet.

Guyon revisited the surrealistic pieces from his January collection, cutting jackets with faces in profile à la Picasso or giant black-and-white puzzle pieces. While quite well-made, these were a bit too on the nose and literal. Guyon has an eye for the subtlest details with the strass brooches decorating the waistline of a citrusy yellow strapless gown and the blown-glass mismatched shoulder-duster earrings.

The collection featured an eclectic mix of fabrics with velvet for outerwear, organza and tulle ruche for after-hours, and vinyl jackets that give it the futureproof feel. Sheer silk gloves add unexpected punches of color to the palette of paper white and classic beige, only to be interrupted by a shocking pink gown. The heart motif dress added a touch of whimsy to the runway and jewel-toned dresses tapped into winter’s favorite rainbow. The influence of great artists was, of course, ever present: tailored jackets nodded to Picasso and Rothko proved to be inspiration for color-blocking contrasts.

From inside the doors of 21 Place Vendôme, celebrities share their impressions on the Schiaparelli Fall 2017 Haute Couture collection designed by Bertrand Guyon.


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