Demna Gvasalia has given Balenciaga instant recognition with new fashion staples such as the skintight pointy stiletto boots, a forward-sloping tailored jacket or coat, a retro floral dress, or one of his giant striped Bazaar market bags. These characteristics remain with the brand season after season as the Creative Director adds new details to an already notable look.

The collection features spandex-filled legs, ’70s swimwear-inspired florals, and tie necklines that are derived from the exhuberant show of Spring 2017. In one clever instance, it’s the mere idea of a knotted headscarf, which gets deployed as tied necklines—minor to major—on everything from frilly baby bonnet hoods to jean jackets to vast padded ski jackets. In another, the wraparound cut of the satin dresses, one a red evening column—originated in the cotton dressing gowns Balenciaga in-house models are given to wear between fittings.

The collection includes a new square striped bag, there is the surfacing of the triangular one which are both bound to become instant hits. The jewelry also makes a statement with grand repro-Cristóbal brooches, and dangling earrings and pendants with a pronounced circular shape.

While there’s the frisson of serious chic in these clothes, there is a fun element to the look with the play on proportions, prints and bold colors.