Hundreds of hours of handwork upon the collection’s gowns and accessories lie behind the intricate Elie Saab Fall 2016 Haute Couture collection.

Elie Saab looked to New York during the mid-century for inspiration. Luxe draping and embroidery, plumage and fur brings a sense of the city’s bright lights and high skyscrapers. Lit skyscraper windows were a decorative motif on the first few gowns.

On the runway, Saab paired models with cute kids, showing off couture for young children. From diaphanous sheer gowns with floral embroideries to voluminous skirts in silk taffeta, the gowns bring the drama. Jewel tones of plum, jasmine and cobalt blue contrast with beige and rose. Nearly each look is adorned with chunky necklaces, bracelets and brooches.

This was an exceptional Elie Saab collection because of how expressive it was. Birds flocked on the skirt of a gown with a black velvet bodice; hearts appeared as prints and as crystal embroideries. And there were all manner of flowers—picked out in yellow, light blue, bordeaux, and black beads on tulle; embroidered in 3-D on Chantilly lace; and appliquéd in watercolor silk on another graceful gown. Saab has always preferred a monochromatic look, most often with shimmery tone-on-tone embroidery. His embrace of change augurs well for his Upper East Side store.