The Diane Von Furstenberg Spring 2017 is Jonathans Saunders’ first collection for the brand and it has his imprint all over it with colorful tones, geometrical prints and clashing combinations. The Scottish designer has moved from London to New York for the newly created Chief Creative officer role at Diane von Furstenberg.
Pointing to his favorite dress at a preview this morning, an on-the-bias, asymmetric confection that combines multiple dot and floral prints, he said, “I made myself dizzy draping this one.” The dress’s asymmetry evokes the ease of Von Fustenberg’s original, iconic 1974 wrap dress, but in a more contemporary way. Saunders used asymmetry throughout the collection: by cutting other frocks and shirts with a fluttery sleeve on one side and a delicate strap on the other; by mixing prints, including a very pretty peony motif; or, in one case, by not extending a print all the way to a dress’s hem—an artful detail that felt unexpected for DVF.
The collection encompasses outerwear, including cotton and leather trenches, the latter with a lavish, detachable fox fur collar, as well as clingy ribbed knits and fancy pants with fold-over waistbands and striped grosgrain ribbon detailing. He said he expects knits to become a more important part of the business: “Knits have a sense of ease that’s right for the brand.” Meanwhil, the dresses still really stand out in Saunders’s first go-round, keeping the DVF legacy going.