The starting point for the Diane von Furstenberg Pre-Fall 2016 collection was a Naples-based, 101 year-old luxury Italian tie maker E. Marinella.
“Everything is supposed to feel like a scarf,” Von Furstenberg said. That held true for the majority of the collection, be it the rare skirt made from the kind of substantial patterned silk you’d find at E. Marinella to pieces like printed slip dresses and sundresses that captured the breezy weightlessness of a foulard.
For Pre-Fall, the collection was titled Palazzo and was inspired by the grand palazzos of Rome and Florence. But more specifically, the collection was derived from traditional men’s ties and foulard prints in a palette of navy, orange and deep green. “Imagine a very elegant, chic men’s shop,” said von Furstenberg. She imagined the ties and scarves on soft pleated skirts, easy slipdresses, a great color-blocked shearling jacket, and her wrap dresses. The collection had focus and ease — everything lightweight and packable, like a silk scarf picked up along the way — and a polished bourgeois attitude.
All of the looks were accessorized with ankle booties. “I said, ‘No pumps,’” DVF said. “Everything is worn with a bootie. They’re cooler.”