The balance between calm and drama, and contrast between cloth that’s either draped or ...

September 7, 2015

The balance between calm and drama, and contrast between cloth that’s either draped or energised with functionality, is at the heart of the COS Fall 2015 collection. Japan is a key influence, from the draped layering of the kimono to the dramatic minimalism of the Mono-ha art movement. Technical details, and glacial shades from the photography of Olaf Otto Becker, bring the outdoor life to a collection that plays with proportion, and the way clothing sits on the body.

Gathers from technical drawstrings are taken from functional outdoor kit, creating a waist on the side of a draped grey wool flannel asymmetric dress. The padding of a sleeping bag is reflected in an ice blue quilted down coat, while a voluminous padded top in white cotton poplin comes with random quilting. Nature itself inspires the fringing that sits like terrain on a forest green sweater, or the grey and white brushed wool of a pencil skirt that is like the bark of the birch.

Scale is important, whether it is the length of a utilitarian apron dress in steel blue, or the cloud-like scale of a voluminous parachute dress in navy nylon with a drawstring hem. Trousers and skirts add to the proportions, from wide grey wool flannel cropped culottes, to the added drape of black bonded jersey trousers with a layered half-skirt. Serenity and drama come together when a floor-length sleeveless jersey funnelneck dress matched with the drape of a camel wool polo neck scarf top.

Accessories include a black leather Chelsea boot with a squared sole inspired by old ski boots, and a felted wool heeled sandal also with a squared sole. A mineral grey felted wool backpack has metal bar fastening, while leather is bonded onto grey felted wool to create necklaces, earrings and flat bracelets. For men, there is a winter sandal in grey felted wool, as well as black leather Derby lace-ups. A drawstring gym bag is rendered in leather, while black leather gloves have panels of textured wool, and a felted grey belt is back in black leather.

Discover the COS Fall 2015 ad campaign as other inspirations for the collection include: Tara Donovan; Oscar Niemeyer; Koji Enokura; Susumu Koshimizu, and Oyvind Tangen’s photograph of the multi-coloured iceberg.


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