The Derek Lam 10 Crosby Fall 2015 collection continues our constant study of “the clever twist” – how to take classic materials and shapes and create fresh exciting garments.
The collection drew initial inspiration from textiles: modern architectural updates on classic winter woolen fabrics,1970s Scandinavian colorful florals and a scarf motif printed on fluid crepes, silks and lames. The menswear fabrics inspired soft tailored outerwear and jackets with crisp creased trousers either cut flaired and cropped or very straight. Fluid printed and solid silks in asymmetric ruffle blouses, wrap dresses and body conscious jumpsuits brought a femininity to the masculine tailored fabrics. Classic pearls and silver beads are used in a modern feminine way to hold garments together – down a trouser leg, around the neckline of an asymmetric jumpsuit, down the side seam of a ruffle blouse.
The modern interpretations on classic menswear fabrics came in rich burgundy, midnight, camel, mustards and denim blues. Burgundy melange felted wool became a kimono coat with bright pink needle-punched edges. Midnight and mustard double-face wool forms reversible pieces: a drop shoulder long coat, swing peacoat and wrap mini skirt. Double-face woolen denim in dark and faded blue is treated like quilted military liners – reversible, bound in cotton herringbone tape and held together with cotton straps. Narrow blazers, drop-shoulder sweatshirts, track pant trousers and a straight leg pant also come in a oversized graphic plaid, window-pane flannel, fluffy mohair plaid, pinstripe wool, speckled wool and deep indigo denim.
A burgundy, mustard and petrol wild flower and daisy print on a golden lame silk jacquard is cut into long fluid pieces – a high waisted floor length skirt, a high waisted slim trouser, slim men’s shirt, and a crew neck blouse. An additional wild flower print on crepe and silk georgette makes a strapless wrap dress and asymmetrical ruffle blouses.