Alber Elbaz cued a slide show of the 85-look Pre-fall 2015 collection he designed for Lanvin. “Forty-six looks are for day,” he noted, repeating the number as if to wave off accusations he does mainly cocktail dresses. His tactic, light on spiel, was apropos for a season approached without a deliberate theme or particular reference.
His tactic for Pre-Fall was to be light on the chit-chat, approaching the collection without a special theme or particular inspiration. “Even in the studio, I didn’t let them work on a story,” Elbaz noted.
Focusing on the beauty of each piece by itself, the collection featured draping, luxe fabrics and the soigné allure that he’s made the watchword of the Paris house. Most looks were cut generously: a slouchy Prince of Wales top, an ample belted trench coat in a bold men’s wear check — a pattern repeated across daytime pieces, including skirts that resembled gathered blankets. Rich floral brocades looked familiar, in a peony-patterned cinched-waist shift, and dramatic, in a voluminous opera-coat-inspired dress covered in parrot tulips. Elbaz’s footwear choices were equally striking: jewelled leather sneakers with the former and cone-heeled black-leather and gold-snakeskin boots with the latter. He also showed a plethora of statement outerwear, including a short coat in a patchwork of textured pastel furs and a trim toggle style in gold leaf that glowed.
“All the pieces people are looking for – a coat for the weekend, a dress for traveling, a pair of pants, high-heeled shoes that you can walk in,” he said in the Lanvin headquarters.