For Resort 2015, the Paris-based, Georgian-born talent David Kona infused the Mugler collection with the signatures from his eponymous line, but with notable nods to the classic brand, namely clear sequins scattered down a zip-skirt gown, snap closures, functional and decorative metal accents, and grosgrain straps that could transform a jacket with a boxy menswear silhouette into something fitted and feminine. That Mugler va-va-voom factor was there, too, oozing out of strapless, sculpted minidresses with zigzag grosgrain bodices, itty-bitty sheer crop tops in 3-D mesh, and a particularly sexy pencil skirt with bondage detailing down the side.
“I wanted to focus on the new Mugler woman,” said Koma, who was appointed creative director in December, replacing Nicola Formichetti.
Koma aspires to give women a full wardrobe rather than just one or two statement pieces. “We wanted to have a fresh start, and to build a beautiful base that the modern woman can wear for every occasion, season after season,” the designer explained.
The palette will speak to a host of consumers, too: Black, white, gray, and blush garments were clean (but certainly not quiet—it’s still Mugler, after all), and vibrant highlighter prints in cobalt, electric yellow, navy, and fire orange offered welcome pops of vibrancy. If there’s any criticism to be made, it’s that Koma could have used a lighter touch when it came to his recurring metal loop embellishments. But all in all, this was a strong first outing for the designer, who says an accessories range is not far off. And while the team couldn’t reveal any confirmed retailers yet, it sounds like the big dogs are biting.