The Sportmax design team started its Resort 2015 collection by thinking about “an expression of feminine movement.”

Maintaining a linear purity while simultaneously introducing elements of flou, the design studio added plissé details to sensible A-line dresses cut from bonded jersey, and also featured folds on the back of a slouchy suit. For the Sportmax Resort 2015, the emphasis on soft pleating and nipped-in silhouettes felt like relatively unexplored territory for the Italian brand known for its smart tailoring and luxurious outerwear; they were welcome developments.

The color palette was predominantly focused on inky blacks and blues, but the Sportmax team didn’t shy away from bold hues and prints entirely. Unconstructed topcoats rendered in vibrant shades of mint green and persimmon double-faced wool were worn over relaxed trousers and refined T-shirts; a fuchsia-and-red combination seemed particularly fresh coming off of Fall’s unexpected brights trend. Gary Hume’s artwork inspired the graphic scribble and brushstroke patterns found on jacquard coats, breezy silk tunics, and slim pants. Compared with the messy abstractions of Jackson Pollock’s paintings seen on Sportmax’s most recent runway, these artsier pieces were more successful in their relative restraint.