As Alessandro Dell’Acqua made his debut at the fashion house, the Rochas Fall 2014 collection featured strong connections between his predecessor Marco Zanini’s recent collections and Dell’Acqua’s first, both in terms of silhouette (full, voluminous) and materials (velvets and brocades).

layered two winter coats on top of each other over wool dresses, accessorized many of the looks with heavy peplums, and misjudged the charm of patent leather. It was so rigid that one skirt made from the stuff looked like it could sashay its own way down the catwalk. Dense encrustations of crystals didn’t do anything to lighten the overall impression. Dell’Acqua’s instincts were better when it came to fabrics. There were a couple of truly lovely velvets. He also had a bit of on-trend fun with bat jacquards that he explained were inspired by vintage Rochas sunglasses. That said, he’ll have to do some reassessing—and learn how to restrain his tendencies toward excess—before he begins work on the next collection.