The Chloé Fall 2014 collection was an injection of a new element: something wild. The coherence and boyish discipline, together with the pretty-prettiness of the brand, was given an additional jolt with the wild and woolly.

Fabrics and textures are always very well done at Chloé, but this season they were particularly effective, with added warmth—both literally and metaphorically, says There was a notion of letting loose in those printed wild-cat furs with additional rainbow tufting, an element that was echoed by a rainbow leopard-spot jacquard. Creative Director Claire Waight Keller also showed tangled fringing; delicate, shaggy, cut silk jacquards; and mid-heeled sheepskin ankle-strap shoes that were particularly compelling.

All of this was managed with an insouciant attitude—the Chloé girl still had polish. “She’s wilder and more mysterious,” said Waight Keller. “She has an urban mystery.” She also has a rather nice array of pillowy, padded leathers to protect herself from the elements in this urban jungle, to cloak all of the pretty silk chiffon and georgette pieces. As well as those great leather shorts that have become such a Chloé staple. The Fall collection was all rather playful, pretty, and perverse.