The Gucci Fall 2014 collection featured snug peacoats hugged pullovers and button-downs, and drainpipes tapered above the ankle, the better to show off the cool shoes, a horsebit loafer hybridized with a Chelsea boot. Sleeveless dresses with sharp, above-the-knee hems had a youthful efficiency. But London’s dolly birds never had it this good. Those A-line dresses came in soft napa leather in poppy pastels—baby blue, sage green, and a mustardy yellow—or animal-spot pony hair. And was there ever fur—curly teddy bear shearling, goat hair, beaver, mink—only rendered in shapes that downplayed the luxury factor.

For evening, Frida Giannini eschewed gowns in favor of mod minidresses and knee-high boots. But if the shapes were simple, the smoky crystal discs embellishing a neckline or the panels of a pleated skirt were not. The starlet set will fight over the yellow long-sleeve number with its black leather collar and bib of crystals. In that sense, Giannini and Gucci came full circle this season.