For the Paul Smith Fall 2014 collection, the designer cut and pasted prints into new patterns and gave his models the moxie to pull off silk pajama jumpsuits.

Those jewel-toned fancy patterns—including stripes, paisleys, and damask jacquards—originated from Persian carpets and wallpapers and gave the collection a seasonless fluidity that was balanced with color-blocked shearling-paneled outerwear, lived-in sweaters, and extra-long evening coats. If the collection skewed more masculine than in recent seasons, it was also somehow more sensual. You could chalk this up to the styling—jackets worn over nothing, and shirts left open down to there—or quite simply the sexy slouch of a low-slung dressy sweatpant. Smith made a point of declaring this collection a personal favorite.