For the Alexis Mabille Fall 2018 collection, the designer presented a range of flamboyant separates with a relaxed, sensual chic aesthetic.

“It might be a “smoking” or a tracksuit — either way, the look is feminine and sophisticated, punctuated by shirting details, one of our house signatures. Cotton mingles with crêpe and piqué with satin in a striking color palette. A contemporary wardrobe for women who consider dressing a means of self-expression.”

The collection featured a gemstone photo-print magnified so enormously in scale that it filled the front of a drawstring-waist tunic. What followed was a jewel-toned palette extending into gradient shades of Prussian blue and fuchsia, which Mabille applied to voluminous silk poplin skirts and dresses as breezy as silk scarves. The lineup was full of flounce; yet cuffs and skirt elements could be removed thanks to rows of diamond-effect buttons—a brilliant touch.

Mabille gave the traditional shirtdresses enough leeway to be properly flirty when worn barelegged, or relaxed as a pajama look when paired with trousers. The range of blouses, freshly enhanced with lace inserts, pleated high collars, and tonal embroideries, remains the designer’s strong suit. Mabille continued his usual mix of cocktail and party attire.