Chloé creates a Pre-Fall collection of fine tailoring with an equestrian twist
The Chloé Fall 2018 collection designed by Natacha Ramsay-Levi evolves a confident through line from the debut runway collection, by building upon a feminine wardrobe with timeless, urban élan.
The role of archetypal garments informed the season, with perennial daywear classics emphasizing Chloé signatures: the blanket cape, the caban coat, the riding blazer, and the ‘saharienne’ jacket have been imbued with subtle equestrian details and masculine fabrics including tweed wool, Prince of Wales checks, wool gabardine, velvet and smooth calfskin.
A collage of layering transposes patterns and textures: crepe roll-neck tops, ribbed lurex knitwear, and zipped polos are worn beneath sharp tailoring, an open ‘dandy’ collared blouse, or long-sleeved shirt dresses. Elongated silhouettes result from streamlined volumes and high waists cinched by knotted masculine belts. Trousers sit high and short, often enhanced with dynamic shapes, whether slim topstitched jeans cuffed below the knee, wide cropped crepe flares, or a cotton jodhpur with quilted patches.
Geometric and floral prints from the Chloé archives evoke a mid-century Modernist touch. Curlicue ‘C’ embroideries; the ‘O’ (Chloé’s ‘eye’ letter) realised as buckles and rings; prancing horse appliqués; all-over sequins; and metallic snap-studs offer subtle embellishment.
Contrasts of matte and shine are tinted in tones of rust, wood, terracotta, mocha, midnight blue, grey, nuances of beiges, whites and khakis.
A new Chloé sneaker makes an assertive statement this season. High and low top styles boast a juxtaposition of natural elements such as cotton straps and leather detailing with nylon panelling and a moulded utility sole. Pointed boots, meanwhile, define the silhouette: built on a stacked Cuban heel, they extend as thigh-high laced cuissardes, or zip to mid-calf worn with striped rugby socks.
The Drew Bijou, introduced during Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s runway debut, comes in new finishes such as burnished ‘sfumato’ tobacco leather, leopard print calfskin or rounded quilting. The Roy bag another of Ramsay-Levi’s new designs, comes this season as a bucket bag, featuring a canvas drawstring insert and finishes ranging from yellow diamond python, prancing horse embroidery, and burgundy calfskin.
Finally, the esoteric illustrations of Rithika Merchant are isolated and transformed as delicate jewellery: hands, eyes, leaves and an articulated feminine form become seductive totems suspended from horse-bit chains and encrusted hoop earrings. Multi-ring jewels return as knuckle-duster rings and stacked earring styles.