Simple lines, a vertical silhouette and a foundation in black and white define absolute elegance for the Schiaparelli Fall 2015 Haute Couture collection. It combines femininity and rigor, both reminiscent of Lee Miller. Masculine tweeds, tartans, culottes and jackets worn over gowns find full resonance in this restrained lexicon.

Luxurious materials embellished with vibrant embroideries contrast with shapes that are almost minimalist. Haute Couture savoir-faire reveals its excellence when twisted with Leigh Bowery’s exuberance. The classic sophistication of an Haute Couture piece perfectly translates relevance and desire.

This imaginary stage – a nod to 1930s Parisian theatres – features shining characters full of sensuality. Schiaparelli’s shoulder line is softly square. A biker jacket in “rhodophane” organza appears almost liquid. Prints inspired by Bérard and Vertès are hand-painted on organdi or silk chiffon. The Schiaparelli Iris shimmers when woven into a golden brocade or is multi-coloured when blossoming out of a patchwork of fur.

Elsa’s obsession for pierced hearts, padlocks, Ursa Major and her ES initials, together with irises and suns is given a new life in this season’s jewellery and clutches.

Discover the delicate touch of French artist Joann Sfar’s watercolors and gouaches in the behind the scenes film of the Elsa Schiaparelli Fall 2015 Haute Couture show. These illustrations of the collection are tinged with the poetry and humor so characteristic of his style. This collaboration is in line with Schiaparelli’s collaborations with leading artists and illustrators of her time such as Jean Cocteau, Christian Bérard and Marcel Vertès.