The Gucci Pre-Fall 2015 collection featured a brick-red hue, cut with a dusty blue. The offering proved stylistically sharp with flats for evening and negligibly nostalgic. Flared pants jauntily cloaked the pointy-toe brogues, while knee-length, printed silk chemisier dresses felt attractively seasonless and ageless in equal measure.

Those prints were clearly distinguished from the painterly Resort collection florals created by artist Kris Knight. This latest crop veered geometric, the most notable featuring a lattice pattern arranged fluidly like an op art illusion around the body. Even a stacked leaf print, appealingly rendered in contrasting warm and cool tones, seemed more camo than botanical.

The collection featured clusters of crystals adorned distressed jeans, and studs followed the pattern of Nordic-inspired sweaters. Luxurious but understated leather and suede coats and daywear dresses, meanwhile, came unlined and unstructured; ditto a brushed double-face wool camel coat.

This season, Gucci introduced a new bag: The boxy accordion construction—in shiny calfskin or python—hinged monogram closure, and double-chain straps were an inspired by the ’70s, but with a modern take.