Designer Mary Katrantzou broke away from computer-generated prints last Fall with a lineup of beautifully embroidered column gowns for her Spring 2015 collection. She described backstage her collection this season as a more “ethereal” direction.

She continued to experiment with metallic and guipure lace, melding it with panels of lingerie silk or pleats to create intricate bustier and baby-doll dresses in nude or pastel shades. As her narrative progressed from land upheaval to ocean ridges, she added dense clusters of jet beads and yet more lace in coral configurations that crawled over prim dresses with neat collars à la Valentino.

While some of her seed-beaded panels looked as stiff as sandpaper, and they did not always glide over illusion netting in the most flattering ways, Katrantzou’s densely decorated clothes command attention.