The Maison Margiela Spring 2015 collection features fractured collages, nude zones, lingerie details, menswear tailoring, upcycled vintage. All these are the materials which Martin Margiela laid down in the nineties, and which the design team is now sifting out from his archives for their seasonal relevance.

The collection showcases some prairie dresses were literal, in small floral prints, tight rows of buttons and shirred yokes and pockets with some sprouted suit sleeves, or accrued trenchcoat details. Breezy jackets in foulard silks or cropped peplum styles are crossbred with pinstripes.

The aprons featured are not for baking: a mere triangle of fabric tied around the hips with ribbons, leaving one leg exposed. These came in necktie prints or upholstery brocades, a popular fabric this European season. Nude bodysuits and sheer knit tubes added a sexy undercurrent to the show — as did the models’ sweaty faces and limbs.