The Tory Burch Spring 2015 collection can be described as “raw and refined” as per the words of Burch herself. She featured an expansive swath of bohemian-lite clothes that meshed her beach-club sensibilities with global cues and arty confidence. The rawness of the collection is its charm.

The collection was upbeat, appealing clothes that appropriately harness the fashion moment. Right now, that means playing into the intricate-fabric obsession sweeping fashion, particularly at its most luxurious levels. Burch has taken that movement to her customer, via sensible delivery. “I just love easy elegance,” she said during a preview.

This centerpiece of the collection was Burch’s savvy interpretation of la parisienne bohème. Wood-grain prints and squiggle brocades— an aesthetic to Coney Island meets Copacabana—added punch to simple shifts and silken tennis skirts. Burch embroidered a single huge splash of crystals onto a coat and skirt in humble natural linen for a smart take on razzle-dazzle — and on the high-low dichotomy she loves.

For Spring, Burch’s muse was Françoise Gilot. “Because she was a strong woman and a great artist,” she said a little testily when asked why. “And she was the only woman who left Picasso.”