Jeremy Scott provided a glimpse at his direction through the Moschino Pre-Fall 2014 collection, showing clothes with a quirky attitude that was reverential to late founder Franco Moschino. Coats and dresses were adorned with gold chains and letters that spelled out the label in the style of the Eighties signature belt, while a jacket and skirt were covered in gold buttons. Even the house’s famed cow pattern got some play on a white wool coat.

His silk-satin tee, made to look like a giant garment tag, was a particularly sly treatment of this theme. There were other grin-worthy efforts, too, like the trenchcoat with a negligee sewn on top, and the stilettos seamed like baseballs, stamped “Moschino Official Major League” on the heel. That was an understated instance of the line’s logo-mania; Scott, a former Moschino intern, took obvious glee in splashing the house signatures, and its logo, everywhere he could. Judging by this collection, it’s a logo due to become very, very relevant again.

The handbags made a statement of their own: Done in quilted leather, they were shaped like mini-Moschino jackets.