A series of hand knitted one-of-a-kind jumpers, waistcoats, and slim fitted top-and-skirt combos were the visual highlights of a slender, chic Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2023 RTW collection, loosely inspired by the clean, essential look of the 1990s.

For Fall, the fit was kept soft and comfortable but closer to the body; the preciousness of the fabrications and the delicate palette of neutrals gave the blazers the luxurious yet relaxed quality so inherent to the Cucinelli look. They were paired with slender midi skirts or elegant straight-cut pants, or worn under loose-fitting featherlight overcoats.

Brunello Cucinelli acknowledged the collection’s ’90s flavor. “I believe it resonates with today’s desire for simplicity, for a stripped down aesthetic, not only in fashion, but also in intellectual and spiritual values. We need simpler, more meaningful lives, less redundant, more in equilibrium, with more equity and tranquility. We need peace,” he concluded. “Political peace, inner peace—peace is ‘the new’ we need.”