A distinctive sense of Italian style, characterized by the perfectly imperfect and a studied effortlessness, is something that permeates the Gucci Fall 2025 RTW collection and its presentation.

Here, sartorial strictness is placed against playfulness, men’s tailoring fabrics traverse the entirety of the collection, transposed into the women’s world. Sharpness and delineation are embraced in suiting, yet at times are undercut by a flash of flesh, a volt of color, or the subversion of crepe de chine – here slubbed tweeds, a classic British men’s tailoring motif, are mirrored in the patterns found in sinuous crepe shirting and blouses. A dialogue of hard and soft continues in brushed mohair shirting, mother-of-pearl leathers, coated wools and bonded boucles – fabric experimentation abounds, embracing classicism and subversion. Color harmonies unite both womenswear and menswear in gradations of greens, greys, mauves and browns.

A synthesis of eras is embraced in terms of silhouette, from the late 1960s – the inception of Gucci ready-to-wear – traversing the decades since. Yet, in the amalgam from mid 1990s minimalism to the more recent ultra-maximal, Gucci motifs unite and the melange means something new. Unifying all is the Horsebit, perhaps the most recognizable of all Gucci motifs. It, too, celebrates an anniversary: seventy years of the Horsebit 1955 bag. From oversized to tiny, horsebits proliferate, a pop readymade appearing in jewelry, like in the flash of waist chain of a deep scooped back dress or most often on leather goods. From the classic Horsebit 1955 bag transformed through new, ultra-soft construction via the giant Horsebit handle of the new slouched shoulder bag to the precise, ultra-luxe construction of the new Gucci Siena, fastening with a half Horsebit click. At its most comfortable, the motif is at home on slippers.