Through subtle and bold combinations, the Chanel Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection pays tribute to a central aspect of Gabrielle Chanel’s work.

With her radical use of black, the couturière brought about a major aesthetic revolution. Yet, she was also a great colorist. She worked with every color of the spectrum, from blacks to whites, from the softest pastels to the most vivid tones.

The collection showcases a pyjama-style ensemble in dawn-hued silk crêpe, a sunshine yellow tweed suit, a lilac tweed dress with box pleats, a suit in white and black tweed painted and embroidered. Then come an orange-pink coat over a purple jacquard dress and a mimosa-hued dress suit with pale pink flounces. Strappy shoes follow the same logic. Flat or heeled, their colors range from sky blue and violet to white and cream.

Tweeds, pockets, braids, linings that match the blouse – which itself is sometimes attached to the skirt for a remarkable drop – and precious buttons: all the traits of the Chanel allure are rendered sublime here. Playing with chromatic shocks and joyous contrasts, linings come in bronze, pink, green, yellow, royal blue or purple satin, while braids are graphic, multi-colored or embroidered with little flowers. The rock crystal, metal and rhinestones buttons metamorphose into moons, suns and camellia flowers.

Alternating between short and long, the dresses are also both at once. The delicacy of their fabrics allows for a virtuoso play on proportions. Ethereal and embroidered, flounced and pleated, they express the technical sophistication of Haute Couture. Through the lightness of the materials and subtle trompe l’oeil, painted lace and embroidered chiffon enhanced with halos of color give the perfect illusion of tweed. A dreamlike and theatrical imagination brought to life by Haute Couture.

Chanel Haute Couture celebrates its 110th anniversary this year and the latest collection conveys the values and explores the codes of the House.