Marc Jacobs celebrated his 40th anniversary collection for Spring 2024 by revisiting his own previous collections with archival revivals.

The collection focused on a skewed perspective with exaggerated proportions of the clothes, stiff foam-like fabrics Jacobs chose, and the way some of the garments were sewn together with side seams on the outside, or exposed their alterations rather than hiding them. On chunky sweaters, shoulders were pushed forward, creating odd 2D effects, and flat trompe l’oeil embellishments were added, creating the impression of a necklace or brooch.

The models were living paper dolls of a mid-century vintage, in ladylike suits, shifts, cocktail dresses, and evening columns glinting with oversize paillettes—though track suits with shrunken jackets and pants rising to the sternum, and pastel velour sets à la Juicy Couture via Balenciaga did disrupt the swans-on-psychedelics narrative. So did the, ahem, “ludicrously capacious” version of his Venetia bag.