The Spring season is a juxtaposition of femininity and feminism, with odes to women as witches in a male-dominated world.

October 6, 2023

Maria Grazia Chiuri dreamed up the Christian Dior Spring 2024 RTW collection starting from a reflection on the meaning of the present. A present in which past and future must coexist simultaneously. She is interested in all the rebels who have asserted their independence in the face of a masculine world and challenged its system.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s creations for Dior reveal a medieval style, an architectural silhouette, where the jacket is of masculine mode. Certain fabrics bear witness to a materiality, a memory of time and an in-depth knowledge of the work of Italian artist Alberto Burri; tears, lacerations and combustions become a constitutive, performative element of the garment. The colors are those of ash, chamomile and love potions. Phases of the moon, suns announcing the seasons, medicinal herbs and fantastical animals are all part of this iconic design, and of the embroidery also at times. Knitwear plays a tremendous role: it accompanies and caresses the curves of the body, enveloping without constricting, it is warm, sexy. A very light, metallic sweater alludes to chainmail.

The monumental, immersive art piece, by Elena Bellantoni, perpetuates this refusal of all the clichés that confine women to predefined categories. The video installation, occupying all the walls of the show’s scenography, uses the analog split-flap device: we see a succession of female figures reworked by Elena Bellantoni, in a pop spirit, using imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases to respond to the dominant stereotype: “it’s not her, she’s no longer all that”.

This new collection thus restores the idea that the body/clothing relationship is set in the context of the times and not in the time of one day or nostalgia.

In the frenzied excitement surrounding the Dior show, a number of guests, opening with JISOO, our global fashion and beauty ambassador, and including Anya Taylor-Joy, Yara Shahidi, Jenna Ortega, Rosalia and Thuso Mbedu, took the time to share their immediate impressions of the event experience.


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