For the Isabel Marant Pre-Fall 2023 collection, the designer mixed femininity with boyish charm, making her such a Parisian icon: washed-out denim cargos with lace are a typical Marantian play.

Masculine, oversized cuts—like a gray double-breasted suit, a roomy black tee, low-slung denims, and ample overcoats—were balanced by feminine touches, like white clogs or thigh-highs in curve-hugging stretch leather. As a counterpoint, she amped up femininity through lingerie inspirations such as a dévoré red velvet corset, a fuchsia stretch linen bustier dress that looked like it could work in any season, or slip dresses like one in black silk satin with broderie anglaise inserts and an open back.

Marant strived to keep silhouettes simple and precise, focusing on refined materials and colors. Other motifs included embroideries on a velvet halter-neck zip-up and a carpet-like print reprised in pinks and blues on a favorite jacket shape, paired with leather track pants. Rather than revolutionize every time, the designer prefers to exercise restraint, stick to her heritage, and bring her vocabulary to different contexts.