For the Tod’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection, Walter Chiapponi went for a concise sartorial manipulation of the trench coat, stretching its classic wardrobe-staple nature into a series of alternative incarnations.

“What I find interesting from a design standpoint is giving sportswear and casual wear a sort of couture spirit,” he said, “introducing a twist of sensuality and glamour into functional outerwear.”

Elsewhere, the trench was deconstructed into a robe manteau, or given a military flavor, or again transformed into an elegant overcoat. To further elevate the sensuous feel Chiapponi is after, high-quality fabrics had a tactile feel, like that nappa leather, rubberized cotton, and soft brushed wools; the execution was as accurate as that of an evening dress.

The rich palette of orange, deep red, and turquoise also highlighted the designer’s take on what he described as a more “sensual, human, and feminine identity for Tod’s.”