Gabriela Hearst looks to restructure Chloé Cruise season with the goal of finding concrete climate solutions.

June 28, 2022


The designer focusined on fusion energy as a means to her climate goals for the Chloé Resort 2023 collection, acting as both a nitty-gritty solution and as inspiration for the line, using star motifs that are laser cut into leather or embroidered into broderie anglaise details.

“The problems fashion has are the problems that all industries have,” she started. “The world’s energy supply is 85% from fossil fuels, and if we don’t eliminate that situation we’re really walking into suicide. All these alternate energy sources—wind power, solar panels—don’t have the capacity.”

The fusion lesson consisted of broderie anglaise and laser cut leather in the form of stars and a night sky palette of strictly black and white, save for a single red dress with a scoop neck and full poet sleeves. She credited Joel Cohen’s recent adaptation of The Tragedy of Macbeth for the corset shape of dresses accented with knotted leatherwork evocative of medieval chainmail, and leather jackets and vests patchwork paneled like armor.

Hearst collaborated with Barbour, the British outerwear company renowned for its waxed jackets, on a trench with ruffles details and on a poncho, a shape she has a soft spot for. The denim corset dress, duster coat, button-front vest, and a-line skirt are the results of a project Hearst dreamed up with the California jeans expert Adriano Goldschmeid. They’re composed of 87% recycled cotton and 13% hemp; that’s an earth-friendly equation.


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