The Viktor & Rolf Fall 2021 Haute Couture collection celebrates self-actualization, considering structures and hierarchies.
The idea of monarchic power led them to a series of questions, starting with what “royalty” means, the disconnect between the facade of institutions and the reality behind the scenes, to the language used to speak about them.
There are medieval-style brocades and an “ermine” cape. A raffia “fur” is a fantastic take on high/low. Tiaras and crowns of plastic are a clue that everything is not what it seems, which is confirmed, without subtlety, with the queen-themed sashes.
Each silhouette was made of a dress, a coat and a sash, which bore witty expressions such as “Royal Pain in the Ass” or “Size Queen,” and made of patchworks of jacquards and cloqué pieces mixed with garish synthetics.
The crown jewels were likewise recreated as XXL fabric versions, their moiré fabric imitating the effects used on the technical sketches by fine jewelry ateliers. Lashings of Swarovski crystals conveyed the idea of a profusion of generational bling.