The Erdem Pre-Fall 2021 collection was whimsy versus progress, devoting his collection to the formal casualness of Nancy Mitford’s own wardrobe from ‘Love in a Cold Climate.’

“There’s something wonderfully modern about wearing a cashmere sweater to a black-tie event,” reflected Erdem Moralioglu.

At first glance, it looked like a typical Erdem proposal: romantic fil coupe floral dresses, neat tonal floral jacquard skirtsuits, and delicately hand-embroidered evening numbers fashioned in things like hammered silk. He juxtaposed his lady-core with cameos from the humble men’s wardrobe, such as big mohair cardigans, rugged trench coats, and stomp-y gardening boots, all derived from Mitford.

He used his new print collaboration with Liberty as a form of research—“The way I would the National Portrait Gallery or the V&A”—losing himself in the years of their archives that corresponded with Mitford’s heyday.