For Spring 2021, Dion Lee softened up his geometric take on sex appeal in favor of an organic reflection of nature’s curves.

In a Bushwick warehouse, Lee and friends set up a veritable greenhouse filled with his green, leafy clothing. The most literal homage to flora is a molded leather top inspired by a Monstera leaf. Testing out new experiments with knotting and macramé, Lee tied up dresses and trousers. The knee-high macramé boots are codesigned by Lee with Fashion, the model and designer who closed his last show.

Elsewhere he developed an ikat camouflage print that feels a little heavy compared with other pieces that cling and wrap around the body. Lee’s at his best when he leans into the more provocative parts of his oeuvre.