Typically the Creative Directors look to some far-flung location for inspiration but for the Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2020, they kept closer to home.

Silk moiré of the sort used for curtains was cut into a sleek, vaguely ’70s-ish pantsuit and a one-shoulder gown with an effusive bow detail at the bodice, while wallpaper prints appeared on summery cotton frocks, as well as a more formal matching coat and fit-and-flare dress.

The designers didn’t let themselves get too hemmed in with their theme. They launched a practically-minded ribbed-knit program this season and they worked with a lot of leather, too, cutting it into a short-sleeved jumpsuit, midi- and miniskirts, a pair of high-waisted, cropped pants.

For evening, an A-line opera coat in a colorful floral jacquard with a black net overlay brought the polished drama De la Renta himself used to specialize in, but with a lightness that gave it a more youthful touch. A fitted column with crystal mesh coursing down one side—a “naked dress” in internet parlance—looked out of place here. Heritage and modernity came together more successfully in a strapless party dress fully embroidered with crystals.