Presented studio-style, the Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2020 collection fulfills the optimistic vision of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri from comfortable corset shapes to elegantly constructed anoraks.

“It was a big decision not to speak about and not to make a collection where we have a reference. There are no references. We are speaking about our codes and how I work on those codes,” said Chiuri, adding that after three years at the helm, she is feeling increasingly clear about her vision for the label.

Checkered twinsets paired with miniskirts and equestrian boots; lengthened coatdresses worn open over pants; and crisp tie-dyed ensembles that register with arty polish show how she continues to rethink Monsieur Dior’s ladylike codes similar to the way in which an interior designer works within the existing architecture. “Fashion is a project, and we’re at a moment when we should be thinking how to renovate this project,” she said.

Chiuri brings intellectual substance to the savoir faire with her own reflections and examinations based on extensive readings and research.

The Manifesto by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior in This Millennium is spaced throughout the lineup as 10 declarations, juxtaposed with photographs by Brigitte Niedermair. From the first, “Fashion is political. Fashion is desire,” to the last, “Choosing a dress is taking a stand,” they address sustainability, creative process, production, inclusivity, identity, and how the past informs the future.

“My dream is that the Dior codes and my codes are very clear, also, because at the end, women can use the codes how they want. I don’t want to impose a point of view about the silhouette. I suggest,” she said.