For the Saint Laurent Resort 2020 collection, the lineup is about everyday life with a more cool, relaxed vibe. If Saint Laurent the man designed plenty of the building blocks of the modern wardrobe—the tuxedo, the blouse, the trench—then Vaccarello is retooling them his way.

From Resort that might mean a black velvet smoking jacket with gilded edges, worn with a long black leather skirt that has as much snap as the fastenings running down its front, or a jet and gold sequin lace camisole with white jeans.

An ivory silk tie-front shirt worn with yet more of those press-pleated pants riffed on Monsieur Saint Laurent’s own North African uniform back in the day. The vest traced with swirls of embroidery over a silk shirt where polka dots were formed out of a constellation of golden pinheads. These were worn with jeans that grazed the ankles, the better to show off new tortoiseshell-effect leather oxfords, or, possibly, ribbon-strap thong sandals.