RODARTE SPRING 2020 RTW COLLECTION FEATURING A STAR-STUDDED CAST
Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte launched a celebrity-packed Spring lookbook.
September 16, 2019
For the Rodarte Spring 2020 RTW collection, the designers gathered their most fabulous friends including Kirsten Dunst, the sisters Haim, Gabrielle Union, January Jones, Lili Reinhart, and Yalitza Aparicio, among others, for a six-day shoot with photographer Daria Kobayashi.
The rich, fantastical rococo set was meant to resemble, according to Kate Mulleavy, “almost a painting in which nature was invading a space that was slightly manufactured.” “How do I imagine my fantasy garden?” she asks. “With a black and white floor….”
The portraits nod to old Hollywood and to notions of American high society reified by Hollywood, while being catnip to fans of, say, Riverdale and Mad Men—is one manifestation of their agenda-setting role as independent designers. The other, of course, is their designs. This season the dresses, all-in-ones, and skirt suits toggle between fragility and graphic verve, debutantes and social doyennes, or, as Kate Mulleavy puts it, “Degas and slinky.” There are fully sequined looks in gasp-inducing teal or glistening paisley.
There are polka dot dresses one could wear to an office and and a gold and champagne slither of a jumpsuit that implies nakedness without showing anything untoward at all. There is a dress in pale mint satin with sculpted ruffles for sleeves. Every piece is special and finished by hand so that the necklines fit perfectly to the sternum or breastbone, the shoulders align just so, the peplums and oversized bows surge at exactly the right spot on the waist or hip.
Through their work with actresses and brides, and in film and opera, they have learned to execute impeccable fit and a cunning light touch with construction that has been lost at more commercial or more industrial houses.