Giorgio Armani creates a freshly articulated and different-feeling Emporio collection for Fall, simultaneously punky and poised, soignée and street

Entitled “Freestyle,” the Emporio Armani Fall 2019 RTW collection aimed to see opposites harmonize in unexpected and individual combinations.

Integrating a wide range of Armani-an references that spanned EA7 sportswear in volumized puffers and backpack harnesses with logos over hoodies to Privé-esque couture-ish flourishes in beaded tops, silk-jacquard floral dresses, and arrestingly graphic silhouettes. Certain single garments were in themselves a synthesis of the high-low harmony EA was seeking: jeans, shirts, and jackets whose structural girders—waistbands, shoulders, hems—were cut in washed denim to support fabric claddings cut in semi-sheer checked organza. These pieces were worn against abstract herringbone-patterned pants in black-on-gray velvet or a cursive, lowercase “ea” sweatshirt.

The harmonies rang truest in a middle monochrome section that linked racy-for-here, latex-effect fitted shoe-boots over layered looks that variously referenced men’s tailoring, couture-ish double hems and a fit-and-flare patch skirt with an Emporio Armani anagram, and bombers in elevated black fabrics.

Visit backstage at the Emporio Armani Fall women’s show at the Armani Teatro and breathe in the electric atmosphere moments before the models hit the runway.