This season, Karl Lagerfeld imagines the Grand Palais as the vast Mediterranean garden of a beautiful, big house for the Chanel Haute Couture collection
A pool of water is surrounded by trees and Southern plant species in a harmony of neat lines. Pathways are almost “à la française”, like 18th century gardens. Among the artistic themes of that century, flowers play an important role as they are at the heart of this Chanel Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection, embroidered, painted, in lace, in feathers, in resin and also in ceramic, even appearing as hair jewels. They explode in bouquets of pastel pink, prairie green and sky blue, and in games of black, white, beige, navy blue, iridescent gold and silver. “It’s a serene, ideal, timeless collection, that’s absolutely now, with new shapes”, says Karl Lagerfeld.
Following the line of the body, lengths run to mid-calf. The second is more flowing with voluminous bell and corolla shapes, full skirts and the bust enveloped with straight or balloon sleeves. Sometimes, the fullness of a bust crosses the tubular line of a skirt or trousers and vice versa.
The dresses and the suits are very refined. Certain jackets are lengthened like tunics, while others with no collar but a folded lapel, geometric or asymmetric, adopt a double row of buttons.
On the dresses, reversed collars give the impression of a bolero. Here the braiding highlights the hyper graphic structure of the silhouette. The reversed pleat reappears on the bust and the hem of the dresses with big bell skirts in matt satin: pulled to the waist, opening like petals at the front or over the hips, they are lined with a second colour or with floral seedlings. Other dresses in sequinned silk faille are adorned with a lateral train inversed and flounced in lace, raised to the waist.
In tune with the frivolity of 18th century style, the “lingerie” dresses in white pleated chiffon are interspersed with ennobled lace, ruffles and ladder lace.
The bride breaks all the rules. Beneath a silver sequinned white veil, she steps out in an embroidered bathing suit and swimming hat.