Bertrand Guyon held the Schiaparelli Fall 2018 Haute Couture runway show at the Opéra Garnier, one of Paris’s boldest locales.

The designer took his inspiration directly from the house founder—“her personality and her life.” Guyon noticed that Schiaparelli took different approaches toward dressing for day and dressing for evening; at work, she adopted a rather austere uniform, while at night, her only rule was flamboyance. His mood boards backed that up. In the atelier, she was often in black. On the town, it was feathers and crystal embroidery.

It was the flamboyant pieces that resonnated—a sweeping cape in Shocking Pink moiré silk accessorized with a matching butterfly mask, a draped white dress with a scrim of feathers at the neckline accompanied by a mask of her pup Popcorn, a tulle column embroidered with silk flowers complemented with a matching bouquet “helmet.” Milliner Stephen Jones supplied the fantastical headgear.

A pair of black dresses in a crepe with a very dry hand were impressively draped and constructed, and Guyon cuts one of couture’s most rigorous jackets: fitted, nipped at the waist, and with assertive, yet narrow, shoulders. A trio of them walked the runway, each one more lavishly embellished than the last, but all retaining that discipline of cut. There is no slouching in a Schiap jacket.

Some beautiful guests share their thoughts on the Schiaparelli Haute Couture show a the Opéra Palais Garnier.