Antonio Berardi creates a Cruise collection with a perceptive reminiscence of the clashes of two different cultures
With his British upbringing as the son of Sicilian immigrants, the designer’s childhood memories served as inspiration this season for the Antonio Berardi Resort 2019 collection.
“Everything in this collection has a little story behind it,” said Berardi. “It has a lot to do with my childhood memories.” In England he attended an all-boy grammar school, where kids wore uniforms and sports like rugby and cross country were big commitments. “I even played cricket, which for an Italian wasn’t really stimulating,” he remembered. “But soccer was enjoyed at all times.” The stripes of his house colors were reinterpreted on silk tie fabrics from Stephen Walters & Sons, a historic English mill, and ’70s soccer shirt weaves were remixed in the full-bodied jacquard of a sharply tailored double-breasted pantsuit and a corseted stiff-flounced skirt worn with a tight bolero over a striped bodice.
Last season he showed in Milan for the first time, presenting his collection in his flat after years of showing in London, and he recently opened a new showroom in a Milanese palazzo. He also had his Resort lookbook shot around Milan by the photographer Daniel Arnold.
The collection had a supple feel with his rigorous tailoring was infiltrated by a relaxed sporty vibe visible in lightweight striped parkas layered over masculine shirts and city shorts rendered in substantial shirting cotton or cotton drill.
The collection featured sensual bias-cut silk devoré ruched slipdresses worn with matching billowing blouses, or in flowing caftans in burnt chiffon voile, which conveyed a sense of breezy movement, as did a wind-swept-palm-trees motif printed on a lightweight, loose-fitting duster-parka.