The Nina Ricci Pre-Fall 2017 collection plays on sporty riffs bringing a cool nonchalance to classics silhouettes.
Designer Guillaume Henry perfectly mixes masculine shapes with feminine touches. He features an unexpected palette of sunset hues spanning a soft-shouldered suit in powdery rose to a corduroy blazer and skirt in deep turquoise. The vivid color combined with the stretchy cling of certain tops, plus a recurring cutaway outlining the hips evokes an ’80s vibe with a suggestive sport aesthetic with an offset of sleek tailoring and customary lace. He transitioned from lingerie to an interest in men’s underwear, pointing out the long johns origin in a cocktails-ready jumpsuit. Conversely, an unlined wool chalk-stripe fit so snug to the body that it became second skin.
Tailoring was sleek and chic with a retro touch such as a wide-lapeled suit jacket was paired with a tea-length skirt with a high slit; the suit is perfectly tailored and classy, with the shock factor coming in with the beautiful turquoise color.
There was also a pair of corduroy-inspired skinnies that is the perfect balance between professional and casual wear. The fabric was a wool with chalk-striped pattern, styled to resemble corduroy. It was paired with an oversized white peasant blouse with lovely lace laid over, tucked in so as not to overpower the slim pant.
Outerwear was featured in the collection such as a cocoon coat in croc-stamped PVC with coin-sized perforations, the dressy down topper with an A-line back, a plush bomber, a papery leather trench, and a rabbit number with puffed shoulders. He used a more urbane neutral that he dubbed “bourgeois beige.”