Shop the interactive Alexander McQueen Fall 2016 collection film exploring obsessions, from feline eyes to night flowers, floating lips, butterflies and ticking clocks.
This season, the McQueen woman drifts between dreams and reality, her senses intoxicated by flowers that bloom after dark. Her wardrobe is feminine and ethereal; sheer lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, marabou feathers and quilted silk satin eiderdown coats are contrasted with Savile Row tailoring, from impeccably cut tuxedo jackets to mannish oversized outerwear.
Intoxicating white flowers that bloom only after dark – Magnolia, Tuberose and Jasmine – clock faces edged with pearls, jewelled eyes and floating lips, owls, moths, doves, swans and the mythical unicorn travel with her. So too does the archetypal symbol of womanhood, the moon. Spellbound by vanity also, antique perfume bottles, dressing table mirrors and powder compacts further embellish her clothing. Her wardrobe is hyper-feminine and gently cocooning juxtaposed with references to the men’s tailoring tradition that remains at the heart of the house of Alexander McQueen. A tender spirit finds light in the darkness. Evening dressing: tuxedo, boudoir and lingerie inspired.
The collection contrasts the light, delicate and quintessentially feminine with an oversized silhouette borrowed from menswear. The dress codes of the boudoir are drawn upon: sheer, lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, marabou feathers and quilted silk satin eiderdown coats are played off against impeccably cut tuxedo jackets with a strong, Forties shoulder and a deconstructed draped or double lapel. Fabrics seem almost to unravel and the breastbone or shoulder is exposed. Coats are worn with nothing but a silk bra and cami knickers beneath them. At the same time, surface embellishment is ever more elaborate. A celestial moon and star gown and cape are encrusted with tiny silver and gold beads and sequins respectively. More flowers and swarms of silk butterflies decorate necklines and hems.