From the first sight of her gothy black liner and lipstick, foot-high platforms, shrunken band-concert sweatshirt, crocheted doily collar, and full skirt ballooning above a crinoline, the Marc Jacobs Fall 2016 runway show was going to be something to see.Sixty-five heavily embellished, manically layered, and mostly black looks later, including one on Lady Gaga, we were all pretty much floored.

That concert sweatshirt was a direct reference to Spring 2016. Black-and-white polka dots called to mind Jacobs’s Edie Sedgwick show; the long capes evoked last Fall’s Diana Vreeland moment. That game could go on and on all night. The trick was how Jacobs made the clothes both familiar and new, recasting all of them in black and white and shades of gray, and playing with proportions. Most of the time, he sized jackets and coats way, way up, but he shrunk some, too, like Julia Nobis’s fabulous crystallized bolero. The outerwear and the sparkly evening pieces are likely to be the major takeaways for retailers.

Watch a behind-the-scenes look at the Marc Jacobs Fall 2016 Collection and the closing show of New York Fashion Week.